7 best watches from Watches & Wonders 2022

One of the stars at the world’s largest watch show in Geneva is the new Cartier watch with secrets

One of the stars at the world’s largest watch show in Geneva is the new Cartier watch with secrets

Watches & Wonders (what used to be Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, SIHH), the largest watch-making summit in Geneva, is underway. Although the total number of visitors to this luxury watch fair is much lower this year – no attendance from China, Hong Kong and many other Asian countries, as well as Russia – there is a palpable excitement among those in attendance. There are 38 brands and it’s not just watch geeks who greet the participation of Baselworld’s Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Tudor, Chanel, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Zenith, Chanel, Grand Seiko and Oris. For watch journalists familiar with Baselworld and SIHH over the years, it’s like tasting both under one roof. Brands like Rolex and Ulysse Nardin pull out all the stops with their showcase – the latter has no less a shark sculpture in it. Cartier has brought back one of its rarest tanks: the Chinoise. TAG Heuer has its most expensive watch to date, the Carrera Plasma, with about 12 ct of lab-grown diamonds. After a quick walk through the brand booths over the past two days, here’s my top seven from the show.

Cartier Masse Mysterieuse

Cartier Masse Mysterieuse

Cartier Masse Mysterieuse

The mysterious dial is back. Cartier’s expertise with in-house complicated movements has steadily increased. Masse Mysterieuse is a spectacular watch that beats to the rhythm of an original timepiece, the in-house 9801 MC. The magic of a mobile caliber is condensed into a semicircle and turned into a skeletal oscillating weight. With the twist of the wrist, the entire movement repositions itself. The 43.5mm 950 platinum case is elegant with the traditional crown topped with a dramatic ruby ​​cabochon. The sapphire disk in the dial reveals the design of the timepiece and connects the timepiece to the crown via a hidden set of gears. CHF 250,000 (approximately)

G Seiko Kodo

G Seiko Kodo

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon

Grand Seiko Kodo (heart rate in Japanese) Constant-force Tourbillon, the brand’s first mechanical complication watch, houses a unique timepiece that delivers stable accuracy. It combines a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism on a single axis for the very first time in watchmaking history. Grand Seiko had presented the concept for the first time in 2020, including the patented 9ST1 timepiece. The Caliber 9ST1 is not only smaller than its concept predecessor with 340 components, but the high accuracy also remains stable for a long time thanks to the constant force mechanism. The constant force carriage has a ruby ​​on one of its arms, which acts as a small seconds hand. The watch has a hacking function so that the rotating tourbillon carriage can be stopped when the crown is pulled out, allowing the time to be changed to the second. In addition, Kodo offers a water resistance of 100 meters and is available in a limited edition of 20. $350,000

Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc

Montblanc1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290

Montblanc has removed the oxygen from its latest mountaineering timepiece for its brand friend Nimsdai Purja to test on his upcoming expedition to the summit of Mount Everest. Dedicated to making professional timing instruments for today’s explorers, the 1858 Geosphere watch has the addition of a brand new chronograph movement, devoid of all oxygen. Limited to 290 pieces, this “Zero Oxygen” timepiece has several advantages for explorers who need their equipment to work in the harshest environments. No oxygen in the timepiece not only eliminates fogging at altitude, but also prevents oxidation. In addition, each timepiece undergoes the Maison’s relentless 500-hour test. €8,000

Armin Strom Job

Armin Strom Job

Armin Strom Job

Armin Strom is an independent small brand with a big heart. The Orbit reinvents the most ubiquitous watchmaking function with the world’s first date function displayed on a bezel that can be viewed on demand. The date is powered by the unique column wheel date complication, which can be activated and deactivated at the touch of a button. A large central hand with a red “A” point for Armin indicates the date on the black ceramic bezel, adding to the watch’s sporty look. The skeletonized design and asymmetric dial layout add to the Orbit’s uniqueness. CHF 29,500

Submersible Quaranta Quattro eSteel

Submersible Quaranta Quattro eSteel

Panerai QuarantaQuattro eSteel™

Panerai’s connection to the Royal Italian Navy and diving watches is further emphasized with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel™. In the recent past, the brand has monitored their sustainability goals, which include reducing waste and promoting the reuse of materials. Approximately 52% of the total weight (137 g) of the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel™ is made from recycled materials. The high-gloss surface on the unidirectional bezel is the first of its kind in Panerai history. Another striking element? The polished dial with gradient effect.

ROLEX

ROLEX

Rolex Yacht-Master 40

Rolex hardly creates completely new products, but always adds value to the existing lines by adding technology to the timepiece or improving the metal quality. The new Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is flashier – made for the first time in 18 ct white gold, it features a rotating bezel set with gemstones that reflect the aurora borealis and the glow of dawn, as well as diamonds, which also adorn the lugs and crown protection.

HUBLOT Square Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic

HUBLOT Square Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic

Hublot Square Bang Unico King gold ceramic

Hublot unveils its own interpretation of the square watch, a totally new geometry for the watchmaker. There is the sandwich construction of the dial, which gives it different levels of depth and a very architectural feel. Similar to the Big Bang, the face of the Square Bang Unico makes extensive use of sapphire to give a clear view of the internal Unico timepiece. The Square Bang uses the same materials as its predecessor, including titanium, ceramic and King Gold, not to mention the famous ‘All Black’ finish. A new band decorated with ‘chocolate squares’ further emphasizes the identity of the Square Bang. ₹34.35,000

The writer is the founder and president of The Horologists.

SOURCE : www.thehindu.com

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